In the midst of a busy period I took time out last December to visit relatives in Cairns in far north Queensland, travelling from Melbourne's (mainly) temperate climes to the hot and humid tropics.
It worked fairly well catching a suburban train to Southern Cross station and then taking the Sky Bus to Tullamarine Airport (approximately 20 minutes). My only criticism would be that the driver could have made an announcement at each stop at the airport as to which terminals and airlines were being covered rather than just one general announcement as we were approaching the airport.
I am not a fan of Jetstar (having had several previous adverse experiences) and was travelling with them again for cost and convenience reasons only. However, I am pleased to report that on this occasion it was an uneventful check-in and journey, with merely a few minutes' delay in departure and subsequent arrival to contend with.
The flight back to Melbourne was uneventful (well, until the kicking and screaming child in the seat behind me started up). Jetstar were efficient and even started boarding before the advertised time! I went to present some ID at the bag-drop desk together with my boarding pass and was told that this wasn't needed, which surprised me! At Cairns Airport there is no departure lounge past the gate, so everyone waits in a large hub area prior to boarding the flight. The short-term car parking costs $4.50 for even a short time, which also surprised me. I was lucky in a way seat-wise - I booked an aisle seat but I was one of the last people to board the 'plane, and someone (possibly an overseas visitor from Asia) was sitting in my seat but the row behind was vacant. So, rather asking the person to move, I loitered around for a short time to see if anyone would come to sit in that row. As no-one else came I hopped in and had the whole row to myself, and it was nice to have the window seat and not be 'hemmed in' by other people. There was a rather lovely view over the ocean and parts of the Great Barrier Reef (punctuated only by a few fluffy white clouds) until we crossed back over the coastline and headed south-west.
Getting home involved the Skybus back to the city and then catching a suburban train home. This worked fairly well, but it was after 8pm by the time I got back to the city it took a little longer to get a train home. Overall not too bad and certainly a lot cheaper than a taxi or leaving the car in the long-term car park!
Showing posts with label Travel Stories. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel Stories. Show all posts
Sunday, February 10, 2013
A Visit to Cairns – Part 2 – An encounter with a four year-old Energiser Bunny!
The young lady of the house (who is nearly five) kept me busy at every available opportunity, including decorating the Christmas tree and building Lego skyscrapers (which was actually rather fun). I don't think the teddy bears who are my regular travelling companions "knew what had hit them" and they were pretty glad each night when the little one had gone to bed! She has more toys, CDs, DVDs and books than I think I saw in my entire childhood.
I ended up spending a lot of time playing with fluffy toys (pretty well representative of a small zoo) and building things (probably my favourite sort of active toy). As well as the Lego castle I built a Magnetix spaceship and a Migoga Marble Run (perhaps faintly reminiscent of the 'Mousetrap' of old), which required a little bit of grey matter input to ensure everything flowed in the right direction.
The youngster dismissed Buzz Lightyear as a "boy's toy" so I tried to explain to her that toys should not be characterised in this way - it was rather that different people liked to play with different sorts of toys. It was very commendable that a Swedish toy store has recently started advertising toys in a gender-neutral way. We were also playing 'birthday party' with Geoffrey the Giraffe, who started demanding that all party attendees should bring him a "good present". So, I tried to explain that we should not demand or expect gifts and that not everyone was in a situation to be a giver or recipient of gifts and that the company of friends was a gift in itself. Whether any of it will stick, who knows, but it was worth a try!
The young one also does beginners' gymnastics, and from watching one class the group of small children were extremely variable in terms of being able to follow the teacher's instructions, particularly in terms of holding a pose, and copying the teacher's actions exactly was more the exception than the rule. Apparently she did not have her normal level of confidence and the next day said that sometimes your confidence goes to sleep for a while! It is somewhat alarming to me to find out that they are shortly holding "assessments" for children so young, and already starting to create expectations that winning or getting medals is more important than doing it for fun (and this goes with unavoidable performance anxiety). I recently heard that funding will be reduced for sports that do not win medals at the Olympics and World Championships, and this seems at odds with the Federal Government's stated position that sport is about participation and not winning and of encouraging involvement in sport at a 'grass-roots' level. This is especially important as a public health measure with the current epidemic of obesity in both adults and children. Only a tiny percentage of people who get involved with sport will win or become an elite performer, and we as a community should not be fostering a "winner takes all" mindset if we want people to have a healthy attitude to participation.
After I had been in Cairns for a week another relative arrived and I joked about her being the "fresh meat" as far as the young girl was concerned. However, as she has seen a lot more of the youngster and she often gives her presents, so it was quickly apparent what the 'pecking order' was! However, when the little one did not want to play with me anymore as she would much rather play with the new visitor, it was a surprisingly emotional experience, which I did not expect. It brought back memories of being bullied and left out at school and people telling me to go away as they did not want to play with me, and the needy people I have encountered in adulthood who latch on to you as the best thing that has come into their life for a long time and almost suck the life out of you with the intensity of their apparent desire to be good friends, and then suddenly someone or something else that can be exploited comes along and they are gone - leaving you wondering what happened and wounded that you took the risk of opening yourself up and making an emotional investment in the relationship. Perhaps the most poignant example of this was during medical school when we were away on rotation and another mature age student who had lost her father to heart disease the previous year monopolised my time and took me away from the people I was fond of in my own study group. During the next 'away' rotation our study group was split up, and tragically the person I was closest to in the group was killed in a car accident on the way back to Melbourne. I felt especially sad that the time I would have spent with him was taken by someone else who it turned out was just using me and quickly moved on to some other sympathetic soul when the rotation was over.
After my visit if I was honest I would have to say that I find the concept of the child who has everything as a result of rampant consumerism quite troubling. There was an excellent article in “The Age” on 18 December 2012 reflecting on the “buy, buy, buy” mentality leading up to Christmas - "Buying useless gifts again? Try giving an experience instead." I really couldn't have said this better myself. I think next year I will go back to my earlier practice of choosing a "gift" for family members from the Royal Flying Doctor Service Christmas Catalogue and sending them a card telling them what I have donated towards in their name. You can contribute towards splendidly useful gifts such as a Heart Start defibrillator, aeroplane nose wheels, dental packages, snake bite kits, neonatal incubators and ambulance stretchers. There are also more traditional Christmas necessities available such as cards, Christmas puddings, diaries and calendars if a more physical gift is required. See www.flyingdoctor.org.au. I am proud to support their work, and if I ever had a dream job as a doctor to aspire to, it would be working with the RFDS! Of course there are many other worthwhile causes (e.g., Oxfam, offering support for people in developing countries) which have a similar donation program at Christmas.
I ended up spending a lot of time playing with fluffy toys (pretty well representative of a small zoo) and building things (probably my favourite sort of active toy). As well as the Lego castle I built a Magnetix spaceship and a Migoga Marble Run (perhaps faintly reminiscent of the 'Mousetrap' of old), which required a little bit of grey matter input to ensure everything flowed in the right direction.
The youngster dismissed Buzz Lightyear as a "boy's toy" so I tried to explain to her that toys should not be characterised in this way - it was rather that different people liked to play with different sorts of toys. It was very commendable that a Swedish toy store has recently started advertising toys in a gender-neutral way. We were also playing 'birthday party' with Geoffrey the Giraffe, who started demanding that all party attendees should bring him a "good present". So, I tried to explain that we should not demand or expect gifts and that not everyone was in a situation to be a giver or recipient of gifts and that the company of friends was a gift in itself. Whether any of it will stick, who knows, but it was worth a try!
The young one also does beginners' gymnastics, and from watching one class the group of small children were extremely variable in terms of being able to follow the teacher's instructions, particularly in terms of holding a pose, and copying the teacher's actions exactly was more the exception than the rule. Apparently she did not have her normal level of confidence and the next day said that sometimes your confidence goes to sleep for a while! It is somewhat alarming to me to find out that they are shortly holding "assessments" for children so young, and already starting to create expectations that winning or getting medals is more important than doing it for fun (and this goes with unavoidable performance anxiety). I recently heard that funding will be reduced for sports that do not win medals at the Olympics and World Championships, and this seems at odds with the Federal Government's stated position that sport is about participation and not winning and of encouraging involvement in sport at a 'grass-roots' level. This is especially important as a public health measure with the current epidemic of obesity in both adults and children. Only a tiny percentage of people who get involved with sport will win or become an elite performer, and we as a community should not be fostering a "winner takes all" mindset if we want people to have a healthy attitude to participation.
After I had been in Cairns for a week another relative arrived and I joked about her being the "fresh meat" as far as the young girl was concerned. However, as she has seen a lot more of the youngster and she often gives her presents, so it was quickly apparent what the 'pecking order' was! However, when the little one did not want to play with me anymore as she would much rather play with the new visitor, it was a surprisingly emotional experience, which I did not expect. It brought back memories of being bullied and left out at school and people telling me to go away as they did not want to play with me, and the needy people I have encountered in adulthood who latch on to you as the best thing that has come into their life for a long time and almost suck the life out of you with the intensity of their apparent desire to be good friends, and then suddenly someone or something else that can be exploited comes along and they are gone - leaving you wondering what happened and wounded that you took the risk of opening yourself up and making an emotional investment in the relationship. Perhaps the most poignant example of this was during medical school when we were away on rotation and another mature age student who had lost her father to heart disease the previous year monopolised my time and took me away from the people I was fond of in my own study group. During the next 'away' rotation our study group was split up, and tragically the person I was closest to in the group was killed in a car accident on the way back to Melbourne. I felt especially sad that the time I would have spent with him was taken by someone else who it turned out was just using me and quickly moved on to some other sympathetic soul when the rotation was over.
After my visit if I was honest I would have to say that I find the concept of the child who has everything as a result of rampant consumerism quite troubling. There was an excellent article in “The Age” on 18 December 2012 reflecting on the “buy, buy, buy” mentality leading up to Christmas - "Buying useless gifts again? Try giving an experience instead." I really couldn't have said this better myself. I think next year I will go back to my earlier practice of choosing a "gift" for family members from the Royal Flying Doctor Service Christmas Catalogue and sending them a card telling them what I have donated towards in their name. You can contribute towards splendidly useful gifts such as a Heart Start defibrillator, aeroplane nose wheels, dental packages, snake bite kits, neonatal incubators and ambulance stretchers. There are also more traditional Christmas necessities available such as cards, Christmas puddings, diaries and calendars if a more physical gift is required. See www.flyingdoctor.org.au. I am proud to support their work, and if I ever had a dream job as a doctor to aspire to, it would be working with the RFDS! Of course there are many other worthwhile causes (e.g., Oxfam, offering support for people in developing countries) which have a similar donation program at Christmas.
A Visit to Cairns – Part 3 - Local Entertainment
On a Sunday afternoon my host and I were invited to an NBL (basketball) game at the 'clamshell' Cairns Entertainment Centre between the Cairns Taipans and the Woollongong Hawks (apparently the competition leaders). We had free tickets in the corporate area two rows from the front courtesy of his partner's health profession contacts. The Taipans won (76 to 66) and although the on-court action was fast and desperate, I was graphically reminded of why I stopped going to the basketball many years ago due to all the American 'hoopla' - loud music, cheerleaders and partisan antics. It was easy to see how it would be difficult to win an 'away game' in such a regional location with an almost totally one-sided crowd. There was one aspect that particularly troubled me - the Taipan's mascot (replete with a plastic Taipan head) kept marching up and down the sidelines with a double-barrelled shotgun, and at one stage "shooting" at a young boy dressed in a hawk costume. This was hardly very 'politically correct', and even though I assume it was a dummy gun, it nevertheless made me uneasy having it waved around with such gay abandon. Perhaps a case of "only in far North Queensland ..."!
A Visit to Cairns – Part 4 - The Weather Forecast: Hot and Humid …
Since I first arrived it was generally hot and humid (not below 23-26 degrees Celsius at night) and in the mid-30s during the day. Not my idea of fun! It is interesting that although genetically siblings are almost identical and our genetic history is exclusively northern-European, two of us have managed to adapt to living in the tropics, which is something I never managed to do, even when I lived in Townsville between the ages of around 8 and 17. I was always sick with some sort of tropical ailment! Melbourne's more temperate climes suit me well and I have had no difficulties managing the Scandinavian winter during my multiple visits there. Perhaps this is an example of 'epigenetics' at work - it is certainly an exciting new area of scientific endeavour.
Since it seems to be consistently hot in Queensland, particularly in the tropics, it is somewhat amusing to hear Queenslanders complaining about the heat and a 'heatwave' when the temperature is "only" in the 30s (Celsius). In Victoria it is not unusual to get high to extreme temperatures in summer, but it is more often a 'dry heat', rather than the humid heat which is the norm in Queensland. I still remember the stifling and smoky 46 degrees of "Black Saturday" in February 2009 when firestorms tore through Victoria leaving death and destruction in their wake.
Since it seems to be consistently hot in Queensland, particularly in the tropics, it is somewhat amusing to hear Queenslanders complaining about the heat and a 'heatwave' when the temperature is "only" in the 30s (Celsius). In Victoria it is not unusual to get high to extreme temperatures in summer, but it is more often a 'dry heat', rather than the humid heat which is the norm in Queensland. I still remember the stifling and smoky 46 degrees of "Black Saturday" in February 2009 when firestorms tore through Victoria leaving death and destruction in their wake.
A Visit to Cairns – Part 5 - Reflections on the Frailty of Ageing
Phew! Hot, humid and busy ... After an elderly relative arrived I was conscripted for both child-minding and caring duties. No wonder my host found this difficult when he had to do both for an extended period over winter. After a few more days another relative came up for a few days, so even though I was back home for Christmas it was nice to have the whole family together in one place, which hasn't happened for a few years.
I remember as a young child that my father's single aunt was in a nursing home with advanced dementia and did not even recognise her own family members. This made a vivid impression on me. This was the same great-aunt that I also remember some time earlier saying to me how impressed she was with my achievements and that she was sure that I would "amount to something". It is always much more gut-wrenchingly awful to experience the slide into dementia of a loved one at first hand, and this is what one elderly relative has been going through over the past few years. Once a vibrant, intelligent, witty, capable and resourceful woman (including making beautiful ballet costumes) who raised three children as a single parent, she is now frail and extremely forgetful and has had several serious falls. In some respects she is fortunate still to be alive as she has suffered both a fractured neck of femur and a fractured pelvis due to osteoporotic bones. It is incredibly sad as well as being challenging to care for her and keep her from harm, and when you have friends with parents of a similar age who are still in very good shape mentally and physically you cannot help but think about what she could have been like.
I remember as a young child that my father's single aunt was in a nursing home with advanced dementia and did not even recognise her own family members. This made a vivid impression on me. This was the same great-aunt that I also remember some time earlier saying to me how impressed she was with my achievements and that she was sure that I would "amount to something". It is always much more gut-wrenchingly awful to experience the slide into dementia of a loved one at first hand, and this is what one elderly relative has been going through over the past few years. Once a vibrant, intelligent, witty, capable and resourceful woman (including making beautiful ballet costumes) who raised three children as a single parent, she is now frail and extremely forgetful and has had several serious falls. In some respects she is fortunate still to be alive as she has suffered both a fractured neck of femur and a fractured pelvis due to osteoporotic bones. It is incredibly sad as well as being challenging to care for her and keep her from harm, and when you have friends with parents of a similar age who are still in very good shape mentally and physically you cannot help but think about what she could have been like.
A Visit to Cairns – Part 6 - Intrepid Tropical Explorers
One Saturday a family group went on a day trip north in a Toyota Land Cruiser. Our first destination was the Daintree, a massive rainforest area which is a World Heritage Area. We crossed the Daintree River on a barge (which is the only way to do it at $26 per car return) and then drove on to Cow's Bay, a small crescent-shaped beach. There were warning signs about crocodiles and marine stingers, so it was definitely a case of walking a middle line between the water's edge and the vegetation when walking along the beach and keeping a keen look-out. We saved the swimming for Port Douglas, our second destination. There is a net-enclosed swimming area which is patrolled by lifesavers. The water was surprisingly warm and the water was not too deep for adults to walk out whilst enjoying a bit of fun with the generally gentle waves. My host advised not getting too close to the netting in case there were stinger tendrils trailing through the holes. Apparently the small and potentially fatal Ikuranjandi jellyfish can get through the holes, but these are checked for before opening the sea pool in the mornings.
As it was going to be a long car trip, our host decided to buy a portable DVD player for his daughter to keep her distracted a lot of the time. I was sitting next to her in the back as our elderly relative was sitting in the front. I would have to describe this machine as an instrument of torture - even the most hardened terrorist would have trouble with an unremitting and rapidly changing diet of high pitched children's cartoons. The young girl (who must surely have much better hearing than me) kept wanting to turn the sound up even though I who was further away could hear it perfectly well. These stylised cartoon voices are annoying in any language when one is forced to listen to them for an extended period - I felt exactly the same thing with children's cartoons in Norway!
As it was going to be a long car trip, our host decided to buy a portable DVD player for his daughter to keep her distracted a lot of the time. I was sitting next to her in the back as our elderly relative was sitting in the front. I would have to describe this machine as an instrument of torture - even the most hardened terrorist would have trouble with an unremitting and rapidly changing diet of high pitched children's cartoons. The young girl (who must surely have much better hearing than me) kept wanting to turn the sound up even though I who was further away could hear it perfectly well. These stylised cartoon voices are annoying in any language when one is forced to listen to them for an extended period - I felt exactly the same thing with children's cartoons in Norway!
A Visit to Cairns – Part 7 - Tales from the Twilight Zone!
A long time ago one of my relatives made an investment in a timeshare scheme, and as a result is able to stay in holiday apartment complexes for a certain number of days each year, and often shares these with family members. On this occasion, she was staying at a nearby complex as the guest space in the house was exhausted. I had been sleeping on an air mattress in the young girl’s play room, but the main issue with this was the inadequate window coverings, which meant that I was woken early each morning by the bright light and often could not get back to sleep. Several nights I was also woken up in the early hours by a sliver of moonlight crossing my face due to the placement of the blinds. Both the fan and the air-conditioner were loud (seems to be unavoidable in the tropics!) but as there was a bit of a cross-breeze from windows on two sides of the room I did not always need to turn them on. If the breeze got a bit brisk the blinds started flapping against the window, which would wake you up with a start. Thinking laterally, this could be minimised by interposing some soft toys on the window sill to act as a buffer! One amusing thing was that the when weight was applied, the air mattress would tend to attach to the tiled floor like the vacuum effect of suction cups. These would gradually let go with a popping sort of noise. The first time this happened I sat up startled, wondering who or what had got into the room!
As my relative had only been able to get a three-bedroom apartment, I thought I would probably get a better night's sleep there. This turned out to be somewhat of a 'comedy of errors'. The blackout curtains were largely ineffective against the stairwell lights immediately outside the windows and the bright car park below. The air-conditioner sounded like a jet engine, and when I turned it off and opened the windows there was a machinery shed on the other side of the car park that also sounded like a jet engine! As a result I was having trouble falling asleep, and of course in this situation your mind becomes over-active and you start thinking about problems, such as the expensive court case I am engaged in to recoup a lot of money that I am owed and which is a very challenging stressor in my life. This really becomes a form of night terrors which takes a while to resolve. It was also a clinical and uncomforting environment compared to the play room with all the smiling cute fluffy toys. Eventually with the help of an eyeshade and earplugs I did get off to sleep, but these become uncomfortable after a while and I woke up early again with the bright light. It was not difficult to decide that I was better off on the air mattress despite the moon and the early morning light!
As my relative had only been able to get a three-bedroom apartment, I thought I would probably get a better night's sleep there. This turned out to be somewhat of a 'comedy of errors'. The blackout curtains were largely ineffective against the stairwell lights immediately outside the windows and the bright car park below. The air-conditioner sounded like a jet engine, and when I turned it off and opened the windows there was a machinery shed on the other side of the car park that also sounded like a jet engine! As a result I was having trouble falling asleep, and of course in this situation your mind becomes over-active and you start thinking about problems, such as the expensive court case I am engaged in to recoup a lot of money that I am owed and which is a very challenging stressor in my life. This really becomes a form of night terrors which takes a while to resolve. It was also a clinical and uncomforting environment compared to the play room with all the smiling cute fluffy toys. Eventually with the help of an eyeshade and earplugs I did get off to sleep, but these become uncomfortable after a while and I woke up early again with the bright light. It was not difficult to decide that I was better off on the air mattress despite the moon and the early morning light!
A Visit to Cairns – Part 8 - Man does not live by bread alone!
At the end of our visit to Port Douglas we had an early dinner at the Zinc Restaurant. This has been reviewed in a separate blog posting [http://aurorae-australis-borealis.blogspot.com.au/2012/12/some-precious-metal-at-zinc-port.html].
I cooked a couple of times whilst I was in Cairns. One night I made a batch of chilli con carne (without the chilli and with some Moroccan spices instead) [My standard recipe appears here: http://themadscientistcooks.blogspot.com.au/2010/06/mad-scientists-chocolate-chilli-con.html]. The leftovers were used as a base for a nachos another night, which was a great way to use it up. Like a lot of spicy dishes, the flavour does improve with standing overnight. Another night I rustled individual serves of Beef Wellington served with vegetables when my brother brought a couple of chunks of eye fillet out of the freezer. This was very well received, and here is a link to the recipe [http://themadscientistcooks.blogspot.com.au/2013/02/the-mad-scientists-brilliant-beef.html]
On the final night we were all together in Cairns we went out to dinner at Pesci's Seafood and Mediterranean Restaurant, which is part of the Pier complex on the waterfront near the city centre. This has been reviewed in a separate blog posting [http://aurorae-australis-borealis.blogspot.com.au/2012/12/awesome-paella-at-pescis-restaurant.html].
I cooked a couple of times whilst I was in Cairns. One night I made a batch of chilli con carne (without the chilli and with some Moroccan spices instead) [My standard recipe appears here: http://themadscientistcooks.blogspot.com.au/2010/06/mad-scientists-chocolate-chilli-con.html]. The leftovers were used as a base for a nachos another night, which was a great way to use it up. Like a lot of spicy dishes, the flavour does improve with standing overnight. Another night I rustled individual serves of Beef Wellington served with vegetables when my brother brought a couple of chunks of eye fillet out of the freezer. This was very well received, and here is a link to the recipe [http://themadscientistcooks.blogspot.com.au/2013/02/the-mad-scientists-brilliant-beef.html]
On the final night we were all together in Cairns we went out to dinner at Pesci's Seafood and Mediterranean Restaurant, which is part of the Pier complex on the waterfront near the city centre. This has been reviewed in a separate blog posting [http://aurorae-australis-borealis.blogspot.com.au/2012/12/awesome-paella-at-pescis-restaurant.html].
A Visit to Cairns – Part 9 - “Danger, Will Robinson, Danger!”
The first few days I was in Cairns I woke up with a headache that would kill a dinosaur, but at least that was more or less settling by the time I had been there for a week! I had some swims in the small saline outdoor pool (seems to be 'de rigeur' there) and went for a walk one day along a nearby walking track. This was quite interesting, as a number of different environments have been planted or have grown up along the track. There should be a creek running alongside, but it is very dry and there was no sign of water. At the end there was a lovely lagoon with the ubiquitous native ducks and some gorgeous pink water-lillies. On the way back I was almost hit on the head by a falling mango! It was a pity that it had split on impact - otherwise I would have taken it home. Another interesting thing was two houses (some distance apart) entirely painted purple on the exterior! There are no actual footpaths in this area but apparently it is OK to walk on the nature strips. This reminded me of my visit to Atlanta, Georgia in 2004, when I was forced to walk on the road for my daily constitutional as all the nearby houses had fences down to the edge of the road. This seemed an echo of the American obsession with the car as a mode of transport.
Somewhat ironically, my host had Dengue fever earlier in the year and his house was in the Cairns 'hot spot' for Dengue at the time of my visit. There are signs in the street warning people that they are entering a "Dengue Zone"! I just had to hope that none of the mosquito bites I suffered were from dengue mosquitoes. As apparently the incubation period is 3-14 days, I expected to know soon enough (and fortunately escaped the Dengue but ended up with a bout of Influenza instead!).
Somewhat ironically, my host had Dengue fever earlier in the year and his house was in the Cairns 'hot spot' for Dengue at the time of my visit. There are signs in the street warning people that they are entering a "Dengue Zone"! I just had to hope that none of the mosquito bites I suffered were from dengue mosquitoes. As apparently the incubation period is 3-14 days, I expected to know soon enough (and fortunately escaped the Dengue but ended up with a bout of Influenza instead!).
Monday, February 4, 2013
"The Ghan" Flight and Accommodation Package offered by Great Southern Rail - Bouquets and Brickbats
Even though the standard of service on The Ghan was terrific, overall the concept of a "luxury package" was let down by the things that were left out. People normally expect that a package will include things like transfers and "Bed and Breakfast", without having to pay extra for these or find your own breakfast and transfers.
As mentioned variously below, it would be helpful to receive some additional information in advance of the trip. It cannot be assumed that people (especially the elderly or international visitors) have extensive access to the internet to look up the GSR website or are able to read a lot of information in English on-screen. It would be good to send out a package with the booking confirmation and include a copy of the timetable and information on the stopover destinations and the optional side-tours available during the train trip so that people can be prepared financially and with the right sort of clothing etc. as applicable.
1. Credit Card Surcharge
It was very disappointing to be told about a credit card surcharge late in the booking process. This does not appear in the Terms and Conditions or the advertising information about the packages. It provides a disincentive to complete the booking, and having to pay through the alternative method of EFT delays confirmation and requires additional time and inconvenience on the part of both the customer and Great Southern Rail (GSR). In terms of the GSR staff time for processing these payments individually, how does this cost compare to absorbing the credit card bank fees? These fees are a cost of doing business that is tax-deductible, and by not levying this surcharge GSR would generate a lot more customer goodwill than the reverse.
2. Virgin Australia economy class flight from Melbourne to Adelaide. There were no issues with this (reviewed separately).
3. Adelaide Ground Transfers (separate cost).
The transfers were an additional cost at the time of booking (if paying on-the-spot $13 each way).
No vouchers were provided, which was not helpful for either the guest or the driver. These could easily be supplied in PDF format so that the guest could hand these to the driver. In addition, the drivers could be provided with a list of people who had pre-paid and pick-up points, so that they could just 'tick people off' rather than telling everyone that they have to pay.
No information was provided on what to do when you arrived at the airport. Guests had to figure it out for themselves and walk over to the bus area.
No information was provided on what would happen in terms of getting the shuttle bus to the rail terminal. Rydges don't deal with this, so it was necessary to make a personal phone call to the Skylink company to find out what the arrangements were. It would also have been helpful to know that it would be a very long shuttle bus trip to the terminal (around 45 minutes) and that the terminal is so close to Rydges. People (with very little luggage) might choose to walk or else get a taxi, which might well cost less than the bus and would be a lot quicker. One couple staying at Mercure indicated that the taxi from the airport cost about $23 and another group mentioned that the taxi from the hotel to the rail terminal was $8. For two or more people that works out cheaper than taking the Skylink shuttle at $13 per head. (The travel documentation incorrectly stated that this was a transfer from the rail terminal to the hotel.)
On the trip to the rail terminal the driver became very agitated (almost aggressive at times) telling people that they had to pay (even though nearly everyone who got on had already pre-paid). There was also a safety issue with the shuttle bus. At one stop it began rolling forwards while stationary, and the bus driver stated that whilst it had a handbrake, this didn't work. If so, the vehicle is not roadworthy and should not be used for carrying members of the public.
4. Overnight accommodation at Rydges South Park, Adelaide was provided as part of the Ghan package.
Positives:
An easy-to-operate safe in room, comfortable beds and pillows, TV with a wide range of channels and free WiFi.
Negatives:
After being booked to arrive from Melbourne just after 11am, check-in was not until 2pm. This necessitated several hours of wandering around in the heat (carrying all our valuables) to try to find something to eat and drink in the city area, which was some considerable distance away, and for someone such as myself suffering from a physical impediment, this was an exhausting and painful exercise. I ended up with a painful back strain as a result which impacted on enjoyment of the rest of the trip and lasted well beyond the end of the journey.
Possible improvements:
* Either a later flight or an earlier check-in would have been preferable. Ideally people should be informed of the late check-in time at the time of booking and given the option of arriving later in Adelaide.
As mentioned variously below, it would be helpful to receive some additional information in advance of the trip. It cannot be assumed that people (especially the elderly or international visitors) have extensive access to the internet to look up the GSR website or are able to read a lot of information in English on-screen. It would be good to send out a package with the booking confirmation and include a copy of the timetable and information on the stopover destinations and the optional side-tours available during the train trip so that people can be prepared financially and with the right sort of clothing etc. as applicable.
1. Credit Card Surcharge
It was very disappointing to be told about a credit card surcharge late in the booking process. This does not appear in the Terms and Conditions or the advertising information about the packages. It provides a disincentive to complete the booking, and having to pay through the alternative method of EFT delays confirmation and requires additional time and inconvenience on the part of both the customer and Great Southern Rail (GSR). In terms of the GSR staff time for processing these payments individually, how does this cost compare to absorbing the credit card bank fees? These fees are a cost of doing business that is tax-deductible, and by not levying this surcharge GSR would generate a lot more customer goodwill than the reverse.
2. Virgin Australia economy class flight from Melbourne to Adelaide. There were no issues with this (reviewed separately).
3. Adelaide Ground Transfers (separate cost).
The transfers were an additional cost at the time of booking (if paying on-the-spot $13 each way).
No vouchers were provided, which was not helpful for either the guest or the driver. These could easily be supplied in PDF format so that the guest could hand these to the driver. In addition, the drivers could be provided with a list of people who had pre-paid and pick-up points, so that they could just 'tick people off' rather than telling everyone that they have to pay.
No information was provided on what to do when you arrived at the airport. Guests had to figure it out for themselves and walk over to the bus area.
No information was provided on what would happen in terms of getting the shuttle bus to the rail terminal. Rydges don't deal with this, so it was necessary to make a personal phone call to the Skylink company to find out what the arrangements were. It would also have been helpful to know that it would be a very long shuttle bus trip to the terminal (around 45 minutes) and that the terminal is so close to Rydges. People (with very little luggage) might choose to walk or else get a taxi, which might well cost less than the bus and would be a lot quicker. One couple staying at Mercure indicated that the taxi from the airport cost about $23 and another group mentioned that the taxi from the hotel to the rail terminal was $8. For two or more people that works out cheaper than taking the Skylink shuttle at $13 per head. (The travel documentation incorrectly stated that this was a transfer from the rail terminal to the hotel.)
On the trip to the rail terminal the driver became very agitated (almost aggressive at times) telling people that they had to pay (even though nearly everyone who got on had already pre-paid). There was also a safety issue with the shuttle bus. At one stop it began rolling forwards while stationary, and the bus driver stated that whilst it had a handbrake, this didn't work. If so, the vehicle is not roadworthy and should not be used for carrying members of the public.
4. Overnight accommodation at Rydges South Park, Adelaide was provided as part of the Ghan package.
Positives:
An easy-to-operate safe in room, comfortable beds and pillows, TV with a wide range of channels and free WiFi.
Negatives:
After being booked to arrive from Melbourne just after 11am, check-in was not until 2pm. This necessitated several hours of wandering around in the heat (carrying all our valuables) to try to find something to eat and drink in the city area, which was some considerable distance away, and for someone such as myself suffering from a physical impediment, this was an exhausting and painful exercise. I ended up with a painful back strain as a result which impacted on enjoyment of the rest of the trip and lasted well beyond the end of the journey.
Possible improvements:
* Either a later flight or an earlier check-in would have been preferable. Ideally people should be informed of the late check-in time at the time of booking and given the option of arriving later in Adelaide.
* It would also be very helpful to have some information provided by GSR on each destination in advance e.g., where to find food, that the tram is free in the centre of Adelaide, etc.
Room 116 at Rydges is probably best avoided. The room had a dank musty smell, which improved with airing, but then recurred when the room was shut up again. The room also opened out onto a balcony which had no less than five airconditioning units right outside the door, with water run off trails and bird droppings nearby. This made me worry about air and water-borne infections. (Perhaps this less-desirable room was a 'budget selection' as part of the Ghan package.)
Both the swimming pool and the spa on the sixth floor were unpleasantly cold. However, the views were great ...
No breakfast was provided as part of the package and the non-inclusion of breakfast (both Adelaide and Darwin) was not made clear when booking.
In Adelaide in particular this was a problem due to the high additional cost of the hotel breakfast ($25 Continental, $28 Cooked), the long distance to both alternative eateries and the nearest supermarket, and the shuttle pick-up about 10am.
It would be nice if Great Southern Rail provided more information about this exclusion "up front". It would be even better if, as people will mistakenly think it is an "all in luxury package", consideration was given to providing "Bed and Breakfast" as part of the package in both Adelaide and Darwin.
In Adelaide a hotel closer to the city centre would be preferable to facilitate guests sourcing their own dinner and breakfast. At the very least, information should be provided to package-holders on feasible alternatives in terms of sourcing your own breakfast nearby.
5. Side trips when The Ghan stops in Alice Springs and Katherine.
The audio announcement dealing with the "Whistle-Stop Tours" which is made during the afternoon after boarding the train refers to this information being in the "Platform" magazine, but is is in fact in a separate brochure. It would be good if the Hospitality Managers mentioned these side trips when they are giving their initial individual briefings shortly after boarding the train so that people are aware of them and what they need to do to book. (Ideally it would also be good to provide information on these trips as part of a package received after booking.)
6. Cabin Orientation
Especially for those who are keen photographers, it would be good to be offered a choice of which way the cabin faces during travel when checking in. Travelling 'backwards' means that you lose the ability to prepare and only see things as they are disappearing behind you. When discussing our disappointment with facing backwards, the cabin manager mentioned that it was possible to request facing in a preferred direction at the time of booking. Perhaps people could be asked if they have a preference as part of the booking process.
7. Transfers: Darwin
When checking about this in a telephone enquiry I was told that a "complimentary transfer" is provided from the rail terminal to the hotel. No information was provided as part of the travel documents regarding how and with whom this would occur. Fortunately this information was made clear through audio announcements on the train as it was pulling into Darwin.
Guests are left to their own devices to arrange an airport transfer. Luckily this was able to be arranged through the hotel reception. The cost was $15 per person (with a small discount for 2 or more persons).
8. Stopover in Darwin
Sadly the option to stay in Darwin longer than overnight was not offered at the time of booking. This means that in effect only half a day was available for sightseeing before the late afternoon return flight to Melbourne. The NT Tourism Authority lady at the Adelaide rail terminal was enormously frustrated (as were the guests) that without a full day in Darwin, people could not take advantage of afternoon sight-seeing options nor take a trip to Kakadu (a full day).
The Holiday Inn Esplanade in Darwin was terrific. However, there was massive confusion on the shuttle bus as to which hotel (Holiday Inn Darwin on the Esplanade vs Holiday Inn Esplanade) people should be getting off at. Perhaps this could be alleviated by a staff member checking people's travel documents upon boarding the bus and giving them a colour-coded voucher and then announcing at the destination - everyone with a green voucher (Holiday Inn Darwin) get off here, etc.
The hotel room was great, and there was a choice of firm or soft feather pillows, which was brilliant as I had left my feather pillow at home in the interests of light packing. The hotel is very close to Mitchell Street in the centre of Darwin, where there are lots of restaurants, bars, pubs, take-away food outlets etc. and also Coles supermarket (Woolworths is a bit further away). The hotel also has a large outdoor pool which is open late into the evening.
9. Miscellaneous Matters
Regarding pillows on the train - some softer/more malleable pillows would be good for people used to sleeping on thinner pillows or feather pillows.
It would be good to be provided with an emergency number that people can call after-hours on the evening or next morning following their arrival at the final destination if they suddenly realise they have lost something or left something on the train. The GSR office is closed and by the time it opens the next morning it may be too late to get out to the rail terminal to chase up lost property. Sadly I accidentally left my beloved iPod on the train and despite extensive searches and enquiries it has not been recovered.
(For those interested in reading more, there are a variety of other blog postings on "The Ghan" travel experience and meals.)
Room 116 at Rydges is probably best avoided. The room had a dank musty smell, which improved with airing, but then recurred when the room was shut up again. The room also opened out onto a balcony which had no less than five airconditioning units right outside the door, with water run off trails and bird droppings nearby. This made me worry about air and water-borne infections. (Perhaps this less-desirable room was a 'budget selection' as part of the Ghan package.)
Both the swimming pool and the spa on the sixth floor were unpleasantly cold. However, the views were great ...
No breakfast was provided as part of the package and the non-inclusion of breakfast (both Adelaide and Darwin) was not made clear when booking.
In Adelaide in particular this was a problem due to the high additional cost of the hotel breakfast ($25 Continental, $28 Cooked), the long distance to both alternative eateries and the nearest supermarket, and the shuttle pick-up about 10am.
It would be nice if Great Southern Rail provided more information about this exclusion "up front". It would be even better if, as people will mistakenly think it is an "all in luxury package", consideration was given to providing "Bed and Breakfast" as part of the package in both Adelaide and Darwin.
In Adelaide a hotel closer to the city centre would be preferable to facilitate guests sourcing their own dinner and breakfast. At the very least, information should be provided to package-holders on feasible alternatives in terms of sourcing your own breakfast nearby.
5. Side trips when The Ghan stops in Alice Springs and Katherine.
The audio announcement dealing with the "Whistle-Stop Tours" which is made during the afternoon after boarding the train refers to this information being in the "Platform" magazine, but is is in fact in a separate brochure. It would be good if the Hospitality Managers mentioned these side trips when they are giving their initial individual briefings shortly after boarding the train so that people are aware of them and what they need to do to book. (Ideally it would also be good to provide information on these trips as part of a package received after booking.)
6. Cabin Orientation
Especially for those who are keen photographers, it would be good to be offered a choice of which way the cabin faces during travel when checking in. Travelling 'backwards' means that you lose the ability to prepare and only see things as they are disappearing behind you. When discussing our disappointment with facing backwards, the cabin manager mentioned that it was possible to request facing in a preferred direction at the time of booking. Perhaps people could be asked if they have a preference as part of the booking process.
7. Transfers: Darwin
When checking about this in a telephone enquiry I was told that a "complimentary transfer" is provided from the rail terminal to the hotel. No information was provided as part of the travel documents regarding how and with whom this would occur. Fortunately this information was made clear through audio announcements on the train as it was pulling into Darwin.
Guests are left to their own devices to arrange an airport transfer. Luckily this was able to be arranged through the hotel reception. The cost was $15 per person (with a small discount for 2 or more persons).
8. Stopover in Darwin
Sadly the option to stay in Darwin longer than overnight was not offered at the time of booking. This means that in effect only half a day was available for sightseeing before the late afternoon return flight to Melbourne. The NT Tourism Authority lady at the Adelaide rail terminal was enormously frustrated (as were the guests) that without a full day in Darwin, people could not take advantage of afternoon sight-seeing options nor take a trip to Kakadu (a full day).
The Holiday Inn Esplanade in Darwin was terrific. However, there was massive confusion on the shuttle bus as to which hotel (Holiday Inn Darwin on the Esplanade vs Holiday Inn Esplanade) people should be getting off at. Perhaps this could be alleviated by a staff member checking people's travel documents upon boarding the bus and giving them a colour-coded voucher and then announcing at the destination - everyone with a green voucher (Holiday Inn Darwin) get off here, etc.
The hotel room was great, and there was a choice of firm or soft feather pillows, which was brilliant as I had left my feather pillow at home in the interests of light packing. The hotel is very close to Mitchell Street in the centre of Darwin, where there are lots of restaurants, bars, pubs, take-away food outlets etc. and also Coles supermarket (Woolworths is a bit further away). The hotel also has a large outdoor pool which is open late into the evening.
9. Miscellaneous Matters
Regarding pillows on the train - some softer/more malleable pillows would be good for people used to sleeping on thinner pillows or feather pillows.
It would be good to be provided with an emergency number that people can call after-hours on the evening or next morning following their arrival at the final destination if they suddenly realise they have lost something or left something on the train. The GSR office is closed and by the time it opens the next morning it may be too late to get out to the rail terminal to chase up lost property. Sadly I accidentally left my beloved iPod on the train and despite extensive searches and enquiries it has not been recovered.
(For those interested in reading more, there are a variety of other blog postings on "The Ghan" travel experience and meals.)
Travelling on "The Ghan" - "Whistle-Stop Tours" - From Katherine - the Nitmiluk Gorge Cafe Cruise
From Katherine - the Nitmiluk Gorge Cafe Cruise
Approximately 3 hours including transfers. $89 adult, $76 child.
This tour includes a cruise through the First Gorge (with a commentary explaining significant aspects of local indigenous culture) and a short walk to some ancient indigenous rock paintings at the top of the First Gorge). Morning tea is also included.
The tour passed through the centre of Katherine and then its outskirts on the way to the Gorge. It was interesting to find out that, in addition to Darwin, Katherine had also been bombed by the Japanese during the Second World War.
The boat had a capacity of around 40 people seated at semi-circular tables so that everyone had a good view. As we travelled slowly up the Gorge our guide provided commentary on the landscape, plant and animal life and the legends of the local Jawoyn indigenous people. We saw one small freshwater crocodile just poking his snout above the water.
It was a beautiful vista, but the real highlight was being able to see some ancient indigenous rock paintings at the end of the first part of the Gorge (where the boat could travel no further due to natural rock barriers). There were recognisable animal shapes and handprints, and our guide explained that some of the artwork was clearly interpretative of the legends of the Dreamtime.
It was fearfully hot and humid whilst on the boat and standing around looking at the rock art and the greater percentage of my clothing was soaked through with perspiration by the end of it. Our guide on the boat warned everyone at the start about heat exhaustion, and there was a bottomless supply of cool drinking water available during the cruise (in addition to hot drinks and scones with jam and cream). It was nice to have a shower and a change of clothes when we got back to the train.
Approximately 3 hours including transfers. $89 adult, $76 child.
This tour includes a cruise through the First Gorge (with a commentary explaining significant aspects of local indigenous culture) and a short walk to some ancient indigenous rock paintings at the top of the First Gorge). Morning tea is also included.
The tour passed through the centre of Katherine and then its outskirts on the way to the Gorge. It was interesting to find out that, in addition to Darwin, Katherine had also been bombed by the Japanese during the Second World War.
The boat had a capacity of around 40 people seated at semi-circular tables so that everyone had a good view. As we travelled slowly up the Gorge our guide provided commentary on the landscape, plant and animal life and the legends of the local Jawoyn indigenous people. We saw one small freshwater crocodile just poking his snout above the water.
It was a beautiful vista, but the real highlight was being able to see some ancient indigenous rock paintings at the end of the first part of the Gorge (where the boat could travel no further due to natural rock barriers). There were recognisable animal shapes and handprints, and our guide explained that some of the artwork was clearly interpretative of the legends of the Dreamtime.
It was fearfully hot and humid whilst on the boat and standing around looking at the rock art and the greater percentage of my clothing was soaked through with perspiration by the end of it. Our guide on the boat warned everyone at the start about heat exhaustion, and there was a bottomless supply of cool drinking water available during the cruise (in addition to hot drinks and scones with jam and cream). It was nice to have a shower and a change of clothes when we got back to the train.
Travelling on "The Ghan" - "Whistle-Stop Tours" - Essential Alice Springs Tour
Essential Alice Springs Tour
3 to 3.5 hours. $84 adult. $66 child.
The tour includes coach travel around Alice Springs and guided tours around the Royal Flying Doctor Service (an organisation that I donate to regularly), the Telegraph Station (in the olden days sending a telegram was the safest way to transmit a message quickly), a choice of the National Pioneer Women's Hall of Fame or the Reptile Centre and the views from Anzac Hill.
The RFDS, Pioneer Women's Hall of Fame and the Reptile Centre are all close neighbours. The Reptile Centre (entry charge applies if not on a tour) was very interesting, and the young and able guide explained everything well. He also gave some excellent first aid advice concerning snakebite, including how to use a compression bandage and the use of the venom detection kit. The attractions include snakes, lizards and crocodiles. A couple of us were fortunate to have the opportunity to hold a young olive python. The softness of the snakeskin was amazing.
The next stop was the new RFDS Tourist Facility. There was a short film on the history of the RFDS, including testimonials from some of the people who had benefited from its care, and a talk by one of the tour guides, who had a personal testimonial. The centre includes a souvenir shop with a cut-down model of a RFDS Pilatus 'plane which it is possible to climb through ($2 coin required) and a small museum (entry charge applies if not on a tour) with models of earlier aircraft, a flight simulator, historical displays of medical chest contents and old radio equipment, including one using 'pedal power'. Iconic outdoor clothing supplier RM Williams has recently combined with the RFDS to produce a range of souvenir clothing, which is bound to be popular. This visit served to reinforce what an important and remarkable service the RFDS provides, not only to the people of the outback but many other people all around Australia. I was surprised to find out that there are 61 aircraft in all. Apparently government provides 80% of the funding, but the remainder is raised through fundraising and donations. A very worthwhile cause and a unique (and living) part of Australian history.
We paid a quick visit to the war memorial at the top of Anzac Hill, overlooking Alice Springs, and enjoyed the panoramic view and interesting hills, mountain and rock formations in the distance.
Our final stop was the Alice Springs Telegraph Station, which operated between 1895 and 1905. The whole story of the early explorers, construction of the trans-continental telegraph line and the maintenance of the remote repeater stations by hardy souls is quite fascinating. The town of Alice Springs came into being as a result of the telegraph station, and it is indeed fortunate that many of the original buildings have been preserved, along with some equipment and artefacts. I was able to recognise some of them as similar to those which could be found at the old family farm (of my grandparents' generation) at Wodonga West in Victoria before it was bulldozed to make way for the Hume Freeway. Things like the old wood stove, metal mesh food cupboards, brass beds, a treadle Singer sewing machine and a grape vine growing on the veranda of the homestead were great reminders of childhood nostalgia.
The Todd River is located immediately behind the Telegraph Station, and our guide explained to us that Alice Springs was named after the bubbling spring that appeared to be present at this location. It was in fact an illusion created by the combination of a waterhole and a cave, but we were fortunate to see some water in the waterhole at the present time. The Todd River is normally dry and is famous for the Todd River Regatta, where people race all manner of imaginatively created boats on foot down the dry watercourse.
A cool glass of water was provided at the end of the tour prior to returning to the train.
3 to 3.5 hours. $84 adult. $66 child.
The tour includes coach travel around Alice Springs and guided tours around the Royal Flying Doctor Service (an organisation that I donate to regularly), the Telegraph Station (in the olden days sending a telegram was the safest way to transmit a message quickly), a choice of the National Pioneer Women's Hall of Fame or the Reptile Centre and the views from Anzac Hill.
The RFDS, Pioneer Women's Hall of Fame and the Reptile Centre are all close neighbours. The Reptile Centre (entry charge applies if not on a tour) was very interesting, and the young and able guide explained everything well. He also gave some excellent first aid advice concerning snakebite, including how to use a compression bandage and the use of the venom detection kit. The attractions include snakes, lizards and crocodiles. A couple of us were fortunate to have the opportunity to hold a young olive python. The softness of the snakeskin was amazing.
The next stop was the new RFDS Tourist Facility. There was a short film on the history of the RFDS, including testimonials from some of the people who had benefited from its care, and a talk by one of the tour guides, who had a personal testimonial. The centre includes a souvenir shop with a cut-down model of a RFDS Pilatus 'plane which it is possible to climb through ($2 coin required) and a small museum (entry charge applies if not on a tour) with models of earlier aircraft, a flight simulator, historical displays of medical chest contents and old radio equipment, including one using 'pedal power'. Iconic outdoor clothing supplier RM Williams has recently combined with the RFDS to produce a range of souvenir clothing, which is bound to be popular. This visit served to reinforce what an important and remarkable service the RFDS provides, not only to the people of the outback but many other people all around Australia. I was surprised to find out that there are 61 aircraft in all. Apparently government provides 80% of the funding, but the remainder is raised through fundraising and donations. A very worthwhile cause and a unique (and living) part of Australian history.
We paid a quick visit to the war memorial at the top of Anzac Hill, overlooking Alice Springs, and enjoyed the panoramic view and interesting hills, mountain and rock formations in the distance.
Our final stop was the Alice Springs Telegraph Station, which operated between 1895 and 1905. The whole story of the early explorers, construction of the trans-continental telegraph line and the maintenance of the remote repeater stations by hardy souls is quite fascinating. The town of Alice Springs came into being as a result of the telegraph station, and it is indeed fortunate that many of the original buildings have been preserved, along with some equipment and artefacts. I was able to recognise some of them as similar to those which could be found at the old family farm (of my grandparents' generation) at Wodonga West in Victoria before it was bulldozed to make way for the Hume Freeway. Things like the old wood stove, metal mesh food cupboards, brass beds, a treadle Singer sewing machine and a grape vine growing on the veranda of the homestead were great reminders of childhood nostalgia.
The Todd River is located immediately behind the Telegraph Station, and our guide explained to us that Alice Springs was named after the bubbling spring that appeared to be present at this location. It was in fact an illusion created by the combination of a waterhole and a cave, but we were fortunate to see some water in the waterhole at the present time. The Todd River is normally dry and is famous for the Todd River Regatta, where people race all manner of imaginatively created boats on foot down the dry watercourse.
A cool glass of water was provided at the end of the tour prior to returning to the train.
Travelling on "The Ghan" Day 3: "How green is my country!"
The landscape had changed once again, with lots of lush green grass and trees (mainly eucalypts) and quite a few pools of water just 'lying around'. At times the train passed through quite dense eucalypt forests. Termite mounds were also plentiful - no wonder they had problems with termites eating the railway sleepers before changing over to concrete sleepers! Many mounds were the characteristic ochre red, but there were also some paler brown ones. The height and breadth of some of the obviously older ones was quite impressive. Around the town of Katherine there was a definite tropical feel in terms of the vegetation. It was also quite hot and humid. The outlook varied from overcast to cloudy over the course of the day. As we drew close to Darwin, quite a few palms started popping up in-between the eucalypts.
The tour and cruise along the first part of the Katherine Gorge (Nitmiluk) was very worthwhile, and it was a definite highlight seeing some indigenous rock art which is thousands of years old. (This tour is reviewed separately in another posting.)
Whilst in the Northern Territory we experienced the paradox that is indigenous life and culture in Australia. In Alice Springs and Katherine, many indigenous people appeared to be spending the day just sitting under trees in parks (some obviously drinking alcohol), whilst at Nitmiluk we saw the other end of the spectrum - educated, articulate indigenous people who were proud of their heritage and culture and were making a living from sharing aspects of it with visitors to the region.
The Darwin Rail Terminal is 15km from the city, and situated close to thick stands of mangroves (not unlike Cairns Airport!). Darwin is very flat, and the drive in to town takes you through a number of industrial suburbs with low squat buildings and past a Department of Defence establishment. The absence of tall buildings in the centre of town is quite striking, and those that exist seem outwardly to be hotels and apartment buildings. Perhaps this is a legacy of Cyclone Tracy, which devastated Darwin on Christmas Eve 1974. My family and I experienced Cyclone Althea in Townsville in ..., but Tracey was far worse. Even in our experience, the most difficult time was after the storm, when all essential services were cut and there was "water, water everywhere".
The passengers from The Ghan seemed to be distributed over a number of the hotels in town, but many of us were either at the Holiday Inn Darwin or the fabulous Holiday Inn Esplanade (both on the Esplanade). In contrast to Rydges in Adelaide, I was hugely impressed with both the room and the facilities at the Holiday Inn. Even a choice of feather pillows was made available on the beds - soft vs firm! It was also extremely nice that when the TV was turned on, there was a message welcoming you by name.
We arrived in the late afternoon to the now familiar sight of indigenous people lying on the ground in the park across the road, and later on one of the young women in our group was approached by an obviously drunk Aboriginal man. Whilst out foraging for food there was safety in numbers, with indigenous people soliciting donations and loitering around the entrance to shops and eateries. A number of places appeared to have security guards patrolling the front entrance, and shops which were closed due to it being New Year's Day appeared heavily fortified to avoid vandalism.
The sense that we non-indigenous people were being 'eyed off' made me feel uneasy in a way that I have not felt since I was in Nepal and tried to go for a walk around central Kathmandu, but was accosted with every step I took. Within metres of the front door of the hotel I had come to the inescapable conclusion that westerners were seen as walking cash machines to be exploited at every opportunity, being bombarded with demands to buy this or that or the other thing or to avail yourself of some service. It was so unpleasant and "in your face" that I became discombobulated and lost my normal impeccable sense of direction in the rabbit warren of haphazard street layouts and had to ask for directions back to the hotel. It was also clear that there was one price for locals and another highly inflated version for visitors (and no fixed prices displayed). I abandoned my plans for gift shopping and solemnly emailed my family to explain the situation and covey my apologies in advance. I was very glad that we did not have to dally long in Kathmandu before heading off for Lukla and our Expedition Medicine course and trek.
However, I digress! Following all that gourmet food on the train I had a hankering for something simple, such as good old-fashioned fish and chips, and fortunately we found an outlet (Chip 'n' Fish - reviewed separately) that was open in the 'foodie' district in Mitchell Street nearby. Since breakfast was not included as part of the package, we also descended on the adjacent Coles supermarket and found some more bargains - yoghurt for $2.99, two cans of mango slices for $2.50, a litre of juice for $1.00, and a packet of scones for $2.70 and mince pies for $0.90. However, I have to say that the Coles self-checkout system was rather user unfriendly and frustrating.
The next morning it was stormy with thunder and lightning and moderately heavy tropical rain. Despite this we enjoyed a swim after breakfast in the excellent outdoor pool at the hotel. It is probably about 30 metres long and reasonably wide and 2 metres deep at one end so it is great for lap swimming.
After that it was off to the local Police Station to report the theft of my iPod Touch on The Ghan. I had accidentally left it in a small alcove above my bunk bed on the morning of the last day and did not realise it was missing until a few hours after disembarkation. The Terminal Manager was very helpful and the cabin was checked thoroughly and various staff avenues followed up, but without success. I was very sorry to lose it as it has been a wonderful and versatile tool, and often helped me to meditate and get to sleep. The Terminal Manager (and the carriage manager on the train) mentioned that it was extremely unusual for anything valuable to go missing, so I guess I was just unlucky. Fortunately I had travel insurance and still have my original purchase receipts so should be able to make a claim. (Moral of the story: make sure your valuables are locked in the safe when you are out of the cabin!)
The rain had stopped and there were a few hours spare before departing for the airport, so after another relatively healthy Subway lunch the gang headed off for a foot tour of some of the historical buildings close to the city and the waterfront. From the ruins of the old town hall to Christ Church Cathedral incorporating elements of the old and the new to the renovated Administrator's Building and the timber Government House, there were many stories of courage and resilience in the face of the devastating destruction of Cyclone Tracy.
The new and modern waterfront precinct is very attractive, with a number of multi-storey apartment buildings ringed around a small beach with a protected swimming area and a very reasonably priced wave pool nearby (adults $5 half-day/$8 full day). The Entertainment Centre and the sea wall and wharf are also accessible from this area.
It was extremely hot and humid and, as in Katherine, our clothes were pretty well soaked through by the time we had been out for a few hours. We walked back to the hotel along the Esplanade for a bit and then visited Coles again to pick up some juice and ice-cream to rehydrate and cool off. As well as a lounge off the downstairs foyer, Holiday Inn Esplanade has a large and comfortable lounge on the first floor, to which we retreated to recover from the heat. They were also happy to store our bags after we had checked out and were wiling away the time waiting for the airport shuttle. Just after we arrived back at the hotel there were more heavy showers, so we had timed things well!
The airport shuttle is $15 per person (discounts for two or more) and was an efficient and stress-free way of getting to the airport. Check-in was uneventful, but yet again I was targeted for the explosives residue scanning test just after the security scanning. It seems to happen nearly every time I fly - perhaps I am just unlucky!
Things were looking up - seats in row 6 and access to the window seat for takeoff. Then it all went pear-shaped very rapidly. There was someone with a loud hacking cough in the seat behind and a family of five settled into row 5, including mother, father, girl aged about 8, boy aged about 6 and a screaming toddler of approximately 2. He wrestled and squirmed like an anaconda and screamed like a banshee when his mother tried to strap him into a harness prior to takeoff. His efforts were so impressive that the cabin attendant came and suggested that she wait until the aircraft was actually ready for takeoff. He did not appear to like being restrained in any way and the ear-splitting screams continued for around 3.5 hours of the four hour flight. Apart from being physically unpleasant and exhausting, it was so intrusive as to render my planned work activities impossible as I could not "hear myself think". The cabin attendant was obviously sympathetic to those who were suffering, and towards the end of the fight was kind enough to offer us a complimentary snack as a gesture of solidarity. Eventually we landed just before midnight and nary an apology was offered at any stage by the parents.
It is not the first time that my flight experience has been completely destroyed by disruptive screaming children (even worse when on an international flight and people are trying to sleep), and of course these families have a right to fly, but perhaps there are ways of being more considerate to their fellow passengers. Aside from the vexed question of parenting style, perhaps things like more playful distractions, travelling at a time that is not past a toddler's bedtime, and seating the family down the back of the aircraft (where there were quite a few vacant seats and fewer people would be disturbed (no-one behind them) and it would be easier for the parents to get up and move around with the toddler) might be helpful.
During the flight there was a quite spectacular sunset visible from the other side of the aircraft (but alas no chance to get to a window to capture it) and then as we neared Melbourne I could see a blood-red half-moon rising over the horizon. This gradually became orange and then gold, floating above the city lights as we came in to land.
The Busy Beaver Airport Parking bus was fortunately waiting outside the terminal so I was able to collect my car fairly promptly and was home just after 0100. I was very pleased with the service that they offer and would use them again.
The tour and cruise along the first part of the Katherine Gorge (Nitmiluk) was very worthwhile, and it was a definite highlight seeing some indigenous rock art which is thousands of years old. (This tour is reviewed separately in another posting.)
Whilst in the Northern Territory we experienced the paradox that is indigenous life and culture in Australia. In Alice Springs and Katherine, many indigenous people appeared to be spending the day just sitting under trees in parks (some obviously drinking alcohol), whilst at Nitmiluk we saw the other end of the spectrum - educated, articulate indigenous people who were proud of their heritage and culture and were making a living from sharing aspects of it with visitors to the region.
The Darwin Rail Terminal is 15km from the city, and situated close to thick stands of mangroves (not unlike Cairns Airport!). Darwin is very flat, and the drive in to town takes you through a number of industrial suburbs with low squat buildings and past a Department of Defence establishment. The absence of tall buildings in the centre of town is quite striking, and those that exist seem outwardly to be hotels and apartment buildings. Perhaps this is a legacy of Cyclone Tracy, which devastated Darwin on Christmas Eve 1974. My family and I experienced Cyclone Althea in Townsville in ..., but Tracey was far worse. Even in our experience, the most difficult time was after the storm, when all essential services were cut and there was "water, water everywhere".
The passengers from The Ghan seemed to be distributed over a number of the hotels in town, but many of us were either at the Holiday Inn Darwin or the fabulous Holiday Inn Esplanade (both on the Esplanade). In contrast to Rydges in Adelaide, I was hugely impressed with both the room and the facilities at the Holiday Inn. Even a choice of feather pillows was made available on the beds - soft vs firm! It was also extremely nice that when the TV was turned on, there was a message welcoming you by name.
We arrived in the late afternoon to the now familiar sight of indigenous people lying on the ground in the park across the road, and later on one of the young women in our group was approached by an obviously drunk Aboriginal man. Whilst out foraging for food there was safety in numbers, with indigenous people soliciting donations and loitering around the entrance to shops and eateries. A number of places appeared to have security guards patrolling the front entrance, and shops which were closed due to it being New Year's Day appeared heavily fortified to avoid vandalism.
The sense that we non-indigenous people were being 'eyed off' made me feel uneasy in a way that I have not felt since I was in Nepal and tried to go for a walk around central Kathmandu, but was accosted with every step I took. Within metres of the front door of the hotel I had come to the inescapable conclusion that westerners were seen as walking cash machines to be exploited at every opportunity, being bombarded with demands to buy this or that or the other thing or to avail yourself of some service. It was so unpleasant and "in your face" that I became discombobulated and lost my normal impeccable sense of direction in the rabbit warren of haphazard street layouts and had to ask for directions back to the hotel. It was also clear that there was one price for locals and another highly inflated version for visitors (and no fixed prices displayed). I abandoned my plans for gift shopping and solemnly emailed my family to explain the situation and covey my apologies in advance. I was very glad that we did not have to dally long in Kathmandu before heading off for Lukla and our Expedition Medicine course and trek.
However, I digress! Following all that gourmet food on the train I had a hankering for something simple, such as good old-fashioned fish and chips, and fortunately we found an outlet (Chip 'n' Fish - reviewed separately) that was open in the 'foodie' district in Mitchell Street nearby. Since breakfast was not included as part of the package, we also descended on the adjacent Coles supermarket and found some more bargains - yoghurt for $2.99, two cans of mango slices for $2.50, a litre of juice for $1.00, and a packet of scones for $2.70 and mince pies for $0.90. However, I have to say that the Coles self-checkout system was rather user unfriendly and frustrating.
The next morning it was stormy with thunder and lightning and moderately heavy tropical rain. Despite this we enjoyed a swim after breakfast in the excellent outdoor pool at the hotel. It is probably about 30 metres long and reasonably wide and 2 metres deep at one end so it is great for lap swimming.
After that it was off to the local Police Station to report the theft of my iPod Touch on The Ghan. I had accidentally left it in a small alcove above my bunk bed on the morning of the last day and did not realise it was missing until a few hours after disembarkation. The Terminal Manager was very helpful and the cabin was checked thoroughly and various staff avenues followed up, but without success. I was very sorry to lose it as it has been a wonderful and versatile tool, and often helped me to meditate and get to sleep. The Terminal Manager (and the carriage manager on the train) mentioned that it was extremely unusual for anything valuable to go missing, so I guess I was just unlucky. Fortunately I had travel insurance and still have my original purchase receipts so should be able to make a claim. (Moral of the story: make sure your valuables are locked in the safe when you are out of the cabin!)
The rain had stopped and there were a few hours spare before departing for the airport, so after another relatively healthy Subway lunch the gang headed off for a foot tour of some of the historical buildings close to the city and the waterfront. From the ruins of the old town hall to Christ Church Cathedral incorporating elements of the old and the new to the renovated Administrator's Building and the timber Government House, there were many stories of courage and resilience in the face of the devastating destruction of Cyclone Tracy.
The new and modern waterfront precinct is very attractive, with a number of multi-storey apartment buildings ringed around a small beach with a protected swimming area and a very reasonably priced wave pool nearby (adults $5 half-day/$8 full day). The Entertainment Centre and the sea wall and wharf are also accessible from this area.
It was extremely hot and humid and, as in Katherine, our clothes were pretty well soaked through by the time we had been out for a few hours. We walked back to the hotel along the Esplanade for a bit and then visited Coles again to pick up some juice and ice-cream to rehydrate and cool off. As well as a lounge off the downstairs foyer, Holiday Inn Esplanade has a large and comfortable lounge on the first floor, to which we retreated to recover from the heat. They were also happy to store our bags after we had checked out and were wiling away the time waiting for the airport shuttle. Just after we arrived back at the hotel there were more heavy showers, so we had timed things well!
The airport shuttle is $15 per person (discounts for two or more) and was an efficient and stress-free way of getting to the airport. Check-in was uneventful, but yet again I was targeted for the explosives residue scanning test just after the security scanning. It seems to happen nearly every time I fly - perhaps I am just unlucky!
Things were looking up - seats in row 6 and access to the window seat for takeoff. Then it all went pear-shaped very rapidly. There was someone with a loud hacking cough in the seat behind and a family of five settled into row 5, including mother, father, girl aged about 8, boy aged about 6 and a screaming toddler of approximately 2. He wrestled and squirmed like an anaconda and screamed like a banshee when his mother tried to strap him into a harness prior to takeoff. His efforts were so impressive that the cabin attendant came and suggested that she wait until the aircraft was actually ready for takeoff. He did not appear to like being restrained in any way and the ear-splitting screams continued for around 3.5 hours of the four hour flight. Apart from being physically unpleasant and exhausting, it was so intrusive as to render my planned work activities impossible as I could not "hear myself think". The cabin attendant was obviously sympathetic to those who were suffering, and towards the end of the fight was kind enough to offer us a complimentary snack as a gesture of solidarity. Eventually we landed just before midnight and nary an apology was offered at any stage by the parents.
It is not the first time that my flight experience has been completely destroyed by disruptive screaming children (even worse when on an international flight and people are trying to sleep), and of course these families have a right to fly, but perhaps there are ways of being more considerate to their fellow passengers. Aside from the vexed question of parenting style, perhaps things like more playful distractions, travelling at a time that is not past a toddler's bedtime, and seating the family down the back of the aircraft (where there were quite a few vacant seats and fewer people would be disturbed (no-one behind them) and it would be easier for the parents to get up and move around with the toddler) might be helpful.
During the flight there was a quite spectacular sunset visible from the other side of the aircraft (but alas no chance to get to a window to capture it) and then as we neared Melbourne I could see a blood-red half-moon rising over the horizon. This gradually became orange and then gold, floating above the city lights as we came in to land.
The Busy Beaver Airport Parking bus was fortunately waiting outside the terminal so I was able to collect my car fairly promptly and was home just after 0100. I was very pleased with the service that they offer and would use them again.
Travelling on "The Ghan" Day 2: "A Town like Alice"
The day was overcast and at least in the early part of the morning travel was through more heavily vegetated areas than late yesterday. There was a plentiful cover of grass tussocks, many small shrubs and occasional forest-like sections with trees and large shrubs. I am no expert on what these might be, but I did recognise some eucalypts and what looked like silky oak. Apparently the large shrubs are saltbushes. Later on in addition to the silky oaks there were some tall pine-like trees with cones. The red earth seemed a little duller, but perhaps this was just due to the overcast sky. There were occasional signs of civilisation, such as dirt tracks, windmills and water and communication towers. At one stage on the western side of the train line there were extensive areas where it looked as if a grass fire had gone through not too long ago, but had not 'jumped the track'. From time to time a number of cattle were spotted lingering under trees and a couple of eagles soared overhead.
As the train will be stopping in Alice Springs in the early afternoon, there is a curious arrangement catering-wise of a "rolling brunch" between 0700 and 1200 rather than breakfast and lunch. Having a bit of a propensity towards hypoglycaemia with lack of food, I decided to start the day with a muesli bar and a cup of tea and then attend 'brunch' later in the morning to improve the chances of lasting through to dinner time without 'fading' too much. I also hatched a cunning plan to take the aforesaid trusty thermos on the Alice Springs 'whistle-stop tour' (but alas did not have time to use it due to the tight timeline). (The tour is reviewed separately in another posting.)
Travelling north from Alice Springs the vegetation was generally denser and greener, and there were a few waterholes along the side of the track. At one stage there were also many tall red termite mounds amongst the bushes. The day remained overcast and by late afternoon it had completely clouded over.
Being New Year's Eve, GSR kindly provided nibbles and a complimentary drink in the lounge close to midnight as well as party decorations and balloons. A relatively small group saw in the New Year and several (quite brief) firework displays in Tennant Creek (the train stopped here for a couple of hours).
It is somewhat amusing that every time you are seated with a new group of people in the dining car that you always end up having some elements of conversation that are exactly the same - where are you from, what do you do, have you done any other train trips like this, what made you decide to travel on The Ghan, etc.
As the train will be stopping in Alice Springs in the early afternoon, there is a curious arrangement catering-wise of a "rolling brunch" between 0700 and 1200 rather than breakfast and lunch. Having a bit of a propensity towards hypoglycaemia with lack of food, I decided to start the day with a muesli bar and a cup of tea and then attend 'brunch' later in the morning to improve the chances of lasting through to dinner time without 'fading' too much. I also hatched a cunning plan to take the aforesaid trusty thermos on the Alice Springs 'whistle-stop tour' (but alas did not have time to use it due to the tight timeline). (The tour is reviewed separately in another posting.)
Travelling north from Alice Springs the vegetation was generally denser and greener, and there were a few waterholes along the side of the track. At one stage there were also many tall red termite mounds amongst the bushes. The day remained overcast and by late afternoon it had completely clouded over.
Being New Year's Eve, GSR kindly provided nibbles and a complimentary drink in the lounge close to midnight as well as party decorations and balloons. A relatively small group saw in the New Year and several (quite brief) firework displays in Tennant Creek (the train stopped here for a couple of hours).
It is somewhat amusing that every time you are seated with a new group of people in the dining car that you always end up having some elements of conversation that are exactly the same - where are you from, what do you do, have you done any other train trips like this, what made you decide to travel on The Ghan, etc.
Travelling on "The Ghan" Day 1: "I love a sunburnt country, a land of sweeping plains ..."
After surviving the ordeal of being in the shuttle bus in Adelaide for around 45 minutes (long enough to start getting a headache as it was not possible to open the windows), we finally arrived at the Parklands Rail Terminal.
The impressively long Ghan was standing at the platform, with its trademark red engine at the front, and a long line of silver carriages. The large entrance hall contains a check-in area, a NT Tourism desk, a shop and a cafe. Boarding commenced at 11:30 and the train left Adelaide at around 12:20.
The Gold Service cabins are small and old-fashioned, but functional, with a long bench seat, a window, an en-suite (with complimentary toiletry packs) and two fold-down bunk beds. Sitting on the benches, one travels backwards. According to my extensive observations on Melbourne trams and trains, this is not the natural preference for most of the human race, who, given a choice, will normally sit facing the direction of travel. (I later found out that half the cabins face in the direction of travel - as a keen photographer it would have been nice to have been offered a choice.) The cabin was a bit stuffy to start with but quickly cooled off once the train got underway. Free tea and coffee is available in a small kitchenette at the end of the carriage. A selection of music is available in the cabin, and the classical content is certainly of good quality. (Unfortunately for classical music lovers who "know their stuff", the selection is repeated.) Apparently WiFi is in the process of being installed, but I am not sure whether I actually like the idea as it is rather nice to be liberated by being free of email and the Internet for just a few days. At some stage during the first evening we also passed out of mobile phone network coverage and this felt strangely blissful. I expect connectivity will be resumed again when we pass through major towns during the rest of the journey, but in the interim the feeling of freedom from modern technology is rather pleasant! All part of the enchanting romance of train travel - sometimes less is more!
The customer service was excellent, both in terms of management of the cabin area, the lounge and the dining car. Announcements of relevance were made from time to time. A complimentary drink was provided in the lounge prior to lunch. Lunch and dinner times are booked and staggered in order to allow everyone to be served in the small Queen Adelaide dining car. (Meals have been reviewed separately.)
The Ghan initially follows the same route as the Indian Pacific (to Perth) but turns north at Tarcoola. Once we passed out of Adelaide we quickly encountered great expanses of farmland, red earth and golden stubble under a cloudless postcard blue sky. As well as catching glimpses of the Spencer Gulf on our journey to Port Augusta, we also saw vast white salt flats and acre upon acre of olive-green saltbush contrasting with the orchre earth. The impressive Flinders Ranges seemed to stretch from here to infinity, and we were told that we were looking at a very old remnant of ancient history that was once connected to Antarctica. Having travelled extensively in alpine and arctic regions, seeing a vast treeless landscape gave me the (false) sensation of being at altitude or high latitude. In the late afternoon we saw grey kangaroos, emus and sheep grazing amongst the saltbushes, unperturbed by the passing train. It was not difficult to spare a thought for the early explorers and the people who did the hard work of constructing the railway in such a hostile and unforgiving environment.
The bunk beds (and pillows) were reasonably comfortable. Coming from Melbourne, it was a case of going backwards in time twice - half an hour for South Australian time, and then an additional hour for Central time (as the NT does not have daylight saving). I have never had any trouble sleeping on trains - I find the motion quite soothing (if a bit noisy) and if it works for recalcitrant babies, why should it not work for adults? My last experience of a sleeper car was on the overnight train from Stockholm to Malmö, where there was a dizzying number of bunks stacked up to the ceiling, and a disconcertingly early arrival in Malmö. Taxi prices there are unregulated, so I was lucky there was a bus service which stopped close to the youth hostel in central Malmö. Even luckier that the driver took pity on a poor foreigner and did not charge me for the short journey!
Ah the irony of "mozzing" oneself! It turned out to be quite an eventful evening. Upon first retiring the train was "going like the clappers" with every imaginable vibration and groan. Despite being in the middle of nowhere with the blinds down, it was surprisingly bright with 'lights off', so I opened the blinds and peeked out and there was a full moon in a cloudy sky. Accustomed as I am to sleeping with a beautiful malleable feather pillow, the pillows provided were too 'lumpy' (fixed shape synthetic) and gave me no joy. Not long after midnight we stopped abruptly and remained stationary for about two hours. Perhaps this was to give way to another train. Once travel resumed it seemed to be at a more sedate pace (or else on a newer section of track) as the rattles and vibration were less than previously. I drifted in and out of sleep, wrestling with the pillow and trying to find a comfortable position, and was then fully awake by 0600 Central time, waiting for the knock on the door with the promised 'wake-up' coffee. This failed to materialise, but no matter. With the airconditioning going all night my mouth became a little dry so it was good to have a water bottle handy.
The impressively long Ghan was standing at the platform, with its trademark red engine at the front, and a long line of silver carriages. The large entrance hall contains a check-in area, a NT Tourism desk, a shop and a cafe. Boarding commenced at 11:30 and the train left Adelaide at around 12:20.
The Gold Service cabins are small and old-fashioned, but functional, with a long bench seat, a window, an en-suite (with complimentary toiletry packs) and two fold-down bunk beds. Sitting on the benches, one travels backwards. According to my extensive observations on Melbourne trams and trains, this is not the natural preference for most of the human race, who, given a choice, will normally sit facing the direction of travel. (I later found out that half the cabins face in the direction of travel - as a keen photographer it would have been nice to have been offered a choice.) The cabin was a bit stuffy to start with but quickly cooled off once the train got underway. Free tea and coffee is available in a small kitchenette at the end of the carriage. A selection of music is available in the cabin, and the classical content is certainly of good quality. (Unfortunately for classical music lovers who "know their stuff", the selection is repeated.) Apparently WiFi is in the process of being installed, but I am not sure whether I actually like the idea as it is rather nice to be liberated by being free of email and the Internet for just a few days. At some stage during the first evening we also passed out of mobile phone network coverage and this felt strangely blissful. I expect connectivity will be resumed again when we pass through major towns during the rest of the journey, but in the interim the feeling of freedom from modern technology is rather pleasant! All part of the enchanting romance of train travel - sometimes less is more!
The customer service was excellent, both in terms of management of the cabin area, the lounge and the dining car. Announcements of relevance were made from time to time. A complimentary drink was provided in the lounge prior to lunch. Lunch and dinner times are booked and staggered in order to allow everyone to be served in the small Queen Adelaide dining car. (Meals have been reviewed separately.)
The Ghan initially follows the same route as the Indian Pacific (to Perth) but turns north at Tarcoola. Once we passed out of Adelaide we quickly encountered great expanses of farmland, red earth and golden stubble under a cloudless postcard blue sky. As well as catching glimpses of the Spencer Gulf on our journey to Port Augusta, we also saw vast white salt flats and acre upon acre of olive-green saltbush contrasting with the orchre earth. The impressive Flinders Ranges seemed to stretch from here to infinity, and we were told that we were looking at a very old remnant of ancient history that was once connected to Antarctica. Having travelled extensively in alpine and arctic regions, seeing a vast treeless landscape gave me the (false) sensation of being at altitude or high latitude. In the late afternoon we saw grey kangaroos, emus and sheep grazing amongst the saltbushes, unperturbed by the passing train. It was not difficult to spare a thought for the early explorers and the people who did the hard work of constructing the railway in such a hostile and unforgiving environment.
The bunk beds (and pillows) were reasonably comfortable. Coming from Melbourne, it was a case of going backwards in time twice - half an hour for South Australian time, and then an additional hour for Central time (as the NT does not have daylight saving). I have never had any trouble sleeping on trains - I find the motion quite soothing (if a bit noisy) and if it works for recalcitrant babies, why should it not work for adults? My last experience of a sleeper car was on the overnight train from Stockholm to Malmö, where there was a dizzying number of bunks stacked up to the ceiling, and a disconcertingly early arrival in Malmö. Taxi prices there are unregulated, so I was lucky there was a bus service which stopped close to the youth hostel in central Malmö. Even luckier that the driver took pity on a poor foreigner and did not charge me for the short journey!
Ah the irony of "mozzing" oneself! It turned out to be quite an eventful evening. Upon first retiring the train was "going like the clappers" with every imaginable vibration and groan. Despite being in the middle of nowhere with the blinds down, it was surprisingly bright with 'lights off', so I opened the blinds and peeked out and there was a full moon in a cloudy sky. Accustomed as I am to sleeping with a beautiful malleable feather pillow, the pillows provided were too 'lumpy' (fixed shape synthetic) and gave me no joy. Not long after midnight we stopped abruptly and remained stationary for about two hours. Perhaps this was to give way to another train. Once travel resumed it seemed to be at a more sedate pace (or else on a newer section of track) as the rattles and vibration were less than previously. I drifted in and out of sleep, wrestling with the pillow and trying to find a comfortable position, and was then fully awake by 0600 Central time, waiting for the knock on the door with the promised 'wake-up' coffee. This failed to materialise, but no matter. With the airconditioning going all night my mouth became a little dry so it was good to have a water bottle handy.
Saturday, January 26, 2013
Travelling on "The Ghan" - Overnight stopover in Adelaide
Adelaide - City of Churches and Cricket
Adelaide was but an overnight stopover en-route to "The Ghan" train service. This city is famous for its churches and a love of cricket and for many years was home to its adopted favourite son, Australia's legendary Sir Don Bradman, a cricketer of whom the whole world still speaks in deferential hushed tones.
The new airport is simply gorgeous. Clean, open and spacious with a definite Scandinavian feel to it, there is ample use of panoramic glass windows and warm wood panelling. It is also only a stone's throw from a large IKEA store!
It was a beautiful warm summer's day when we arrived - a cobalt blue cloudless sky and the sun beating down on a parched dry land. There is something quintessentially 'Australian' about this. We respond to the dry air in our nostrils, the muted and pastel green, gold, brown, ochre, blue and purple of the landscape, the way the brightness of the sun almost stings our eyes and makes us squint, and the stillness and expanse of the 'Great Southern Land' in which our heartbeat is just a tiny portion of the pulsating liveliness which underpins everything in and upon it. It is as if once the sun touches the land, the spirit of the land is magnified and radiates back outwards, illuminating us all.
I have not been to Adelaide for many years, and my first impression of it is that it is a bit like a large country town. It still possesses many of its 'Colonial era' buildings, and wide open boulevards. It made me think of other cities with quaint charm, such as Hobart and Christchurch in New Zealand. The centre of the city is laid out in a grid, so it is impossible to get lost, surrounded by the unimaginatively named "North", "South", "East" and "West" Terraces.
I recall from the distant past that the iconic Rundle Mall was quiet and gentrified, with many small cafes and eateries. Now it is busy, noisy and commercialised, not unlike any other major shopping centre/strip anywhere else in Australia. One curious thing was that a movie theatre was nowhere to be seen.
The beautiful St Francis Xavier Church is in the centre of the city, with a sculpture memorial to Australia's only Saint, Mary McKillop, out the front. Inside it is cool, dimly lit and contemplative, with a beautiful rose window above the back gallery. With ceiling fans creating a gentle breeze, it was a welcome respite from the heat.
What to do about food? With an annoyingly delayed 2pm check-in at the hotel (Rydges on South Terrace) our group trudged what turned out to be a very long way in the heat into the city searching for something as simple as a sandwich and fruit drink for lunch. Eventually we stumbled across Gouger Street, heart of Adelaide's 'foodie precinct' and found a Subway. As one of the healthiest of fast food choices, the turkey, ham and salad roll ($8.95 for a 12 inch Sub for sharing) and 500mL Goulburn Valley orange juice with pulp ($3.70) was like manna from heaven and supplied some much-needed energy. On our way back to the hotel, we also stumbled across an intriguing-sounding restaurant called "British India", near the corner of Gouger and Morphett Streets. The original plan was to return here for dinner, but exhaustion got in the way! However, upon researching this restaurant on Urbanspoon, the reviews were almost universally good, so it sounds like one worth trying if you are looking for somewhere to eat in central Adelaide.
Since there was no breakfast included with our package, taking care of this was also another obstacle to overcome. It was too far to walk back to Gouger Street with a shuttle pick-up shortly after 10am, and the hotel breakfast was way too expensive - $25 Continental, $28 Cooked, so another plan had to be hatched. According to the hotel information brochure, there was an IGA in nearby Gilbert Street (they neglected to mention that this was a looong way along the street back towards the city!) so we trudged off again and eventually found it. The airconditioning was a welcome relief and spent a whole $8.47 on breakfast for the group - milk, yoghurt and canned fruit. On reviewing the invoice later, we also discovered that we had been charged $0.10 for a plastic bag. The cashier did not advise that there was a charge for bags. As a strong proponent of recycleable bags at home, I would not have willingly purchased a plastic bag in this instance. Whether this is a South Australian or IGA initiative, they have a duty to inform customers prior to charging them.
On our way back from the supermarket, we decided to check out the bistro in the nearby pub on the corner of Gilbert Street and West Terrace - the Elephant and Castle (reviewed separately) and enjoyed a tasty and cost-effective meal.
Adelaide was but an overnight stopover en-route to "The Ghan" train service. This city is famous for its churches and a love of cricket and for many years was home to its adopted favourite son, Australia's legendary Sir Don Bradman, a cricketer of whom the whole world still speaks in deferential hushed tones.
The new airport is simply gorgeous. Clean, open and spacious with a definite Scandinavian feel to it, there is ample use of panoramic glass windows and warm wood panelling. It is also only a stone's throw from a large IKEA store!
It was a beautiful warm summer's day when we arrived - a cobalt blue cloudless sky and the sun beating down on a parched dry land. There is something quintessentially 'Australian' about this. We respond to the dry air in our nostrils, the muted and pastel green, gold, brown, ochre, blue and purple of the landscape, the way the brightness of the sun almost stings our eyes and makes us squint, and the stillness and expanse of the 'Great Southern Land' in which our heartbeat is just a tiny portion of the pulsating liveliness which underpins everything in and upon it. It is as if once the sun touches the land, the spirit of the land is magnified and radiates back outwards, illuminating us all.
I have not been to Adelaide for many years, and my first impression of it is that it is a bit like a large country town. It still possesses many of its 'Colonial era' buildings, and wide open boulevards. It made me think of other cities with quaint charm, such as Hobart and Christchurch in New Zealand. The centre of the city is laid out in a grid, so it is impossible to get lost, surrounded by the unimaginatively named "North", "South", "East" and "West" Terraces.
I recall from the distant past that the iconic Rundle Mall was quiet and gentrified, with many small cafes and eateries. Now it is busy, noisy and commercialised, not unlike any other major shopping centre/strip anywhere else in Australia. One curious thing was that a movie theatre was nowhere to be seen.
The beautiful St Francis Xavier Church is in the centre of the city, with a sculpture memorial to Australia's only Saint, Mary McKillop, out the front. Inside it is cool, dimly lit and contemplative, with a beautiful rose window above the back gallery. With ceiling fans creating a gentle breeze, it was a welcome respite from the heat.
What to do about food? With an annoyingly delayed 2pm check-in at the hotel (Rydges on South Terrace) our group trudged what turned out to be a very long way in the heat into the city searching for something as simple as a sandwich and fruit drink for lunch. Eventually we stumbled across Gouger Street, heart of Adelaide's 'foodie precinct' and found a Subway. As one of the healthiest of fast food choices, the turkey, ham and salad roll ($8.95 for a 12 inch Sub for sharing) and 500mL Goulburn Valley orange juice with pulp ($3.70) was like manna from heaven and supplied some much-needed energy. On our way back to the hotel, we also stumbled across an intriguing-sounding restaurant called "British India", near the corner of Gouger and Morphett Streets. The original plan was to return here for dinner, but exhaustion got in the way! However, upon researching this restaurant on Urbanspoon, the reviews were almost universally good, so it sounds like one worth trying if you are looking for somewhere to eat in central Adelaide.
Since there was no breakfast included with our package, taking care of this was also another obstacle to overcome. It was too far to walk back to Gouger Street with a shuttle pick-up shortly after 10am, and the hotel breakfast was way too expensive - $25 Continental, $28 Cooked, so another plan had to be hatched. According to the hotel information brochure, there was an IGA in nearby Gilbert Street (they neglected to mention that this was a looong way along the street back towards the city!) so we trudged off again and eventually found it. The airconditioning was a welcome relief and spent a whole $8.47 on breakfast for the group - milk, yoghurt and canned fruit. On reviewing the invoice later, we also discovered that we had been charged $0.10 for a plastic bag. The cashier did not advise that there was a charge for bags. As a strong proponent of recycleable bags at home, I would not have willingly purchased a plastic bag in this instance. Whether this is a South Australian or IGA initiative, they have a duty to inform customers prior to charging them.
On our way back from the supermarket, we decided to check out the bistro in the nearby pub on the corner of Gilbert Street and West Terrace - the Elephant and Castle (reviewed separately) and enjoyed a tasty and cost-effective meal.
Travelling on "The Ghan" - flying from Melbourne to Adelaide with Virgin Australia
This Virgin Australian flight was part of the overall package offered by Great Southern Rail for travel on "The Ghan" from Adelaide to Darwin.
Once we got past the recurring issue of my Velocity account name "Dr..." not agreeing with the booking name "Ms..." all went swimmingly. The nice Virgin customer service person who resolved the conflict over the telephone so I could proceed with my online check-in informed me that at long last they are taking steps to upgrade their booking system to accept titles other than "Mr/Ms/Miss".
The flight attendants were all helpful and good-humoured, and the aircraft was very comfortable. In its favour were leather seats with fully retractable arm-rests (so one could stretch out across an entire row of three seats if so fortunate to have them all vacant) with gaily coloured alternating red, purple and grey headrests. I can readily recall several painful experiences trying to sleep on international flights where the arm-rests would only lift up so far and you had to be a bit of a contortionist and sadist to attempt to stretch out in these circumstances.
Having packed my trusty thermos of coffee (a brilliant and now somewhat antique small Kathmandu open-necked thermos with a screw lid which has a secret compartment for a teabag etc), I was delighted to discover that Virgin are now offering complimentary tea, coffee and newspapers, served with a smile.
Last year I had to travel to Queensland for family reasons, and there weren't many flight options, but using my Velocity points and a small amount of cash I was able to obtain a bargain deal on a Virgin 'Premium Economy' seat up the front of the 'plane. This was a great experience - a large plush and comfy leather seat and complimentary food, drink, water and entertainment, not to mention attentive flight attendants! This section of the ‘plane has now morphed into “Business Class”, but if you get the opportunity, it is well worth trying as a pleasant alternative to regular economy.
Melbourne being one of the few major cities in the civilised world not to have a train link to the airport, it is always a vexed issue regarding the most efficient and cost-effective form of transport to and from the airport. Taxis are very expensive, and the Skybus service (http://skybus.com.au/) is very good ($28 return) but getting a connecting train home from Southern Cross Station in the city can be a problem if arriving in very late at night or in the early hours of the morning. Long-term parking at or near the airport is another option. A couple of years ago the prices went up dramatically for the long-term parking at the airport, rendering it less cost-effective, but over recent years a number of commercial operations have spring up which provide either outdoor or indoor parking for your vehicle and 24 hour shuttle buses to and from the airport.
Once we got past the recurring issue of my Velocity account name "Dr..." not agreeing with the booking name "Ms..." all went swimmingly. The nice Virgin customer service person who resolved the conflict over the telephone so I could proceed with my online check-in informed me that at long last they are taking steps to upgrade their booking system to accept titles other than "Mr/Ms/Miss".
The flight attendants were all helpful and good-humoured, and the aircraft was very comfortable. In its favour were leather seats with fully retractable arm-rests (so one could stretch out across an entire row of three seats if so fortunate to have them all vacant) with gaily coloured alternating red, purple and grey headrests. I can readily recall several painful experiences trying to sleep on international flights where the arm-rests would only lift up so far and you had to be a bit of a contortionist and sadist to attempt to stretch out in these circumstances.
Having packed my trusty thermos of coffee (a brilliant and now somewhat antique small Kathmandu open-necked thermos with a screw lid which has a secret compartment for a teabag etc), I was delighted to discover that Virgin are now offering complimentary tea, coffee and newspapers, served with a smile.
Last year I had to travel to Queensland for family reasons, and there weren't many flight options, but using my Velocity points and a small amount of cash I was able to obtain a bargain deal on a Virgin 'Premium Economy' seat up the front of the 'plane. This was a great experience - a large plush and comfy leather seat and complimentary food, drink, water and entertainment, not to mention attentive flight attendants! This section of the ‘plane has now morphed into “Business Class”, but if you get the opportunity, it is well worth trying as a pleasant alternative to regular economy.
Melbourne being one of the few major cities in the civilised world not to have a train link to the airport, it is always a vexed issue regarding the most efficient and cost-effective form of transport to and from the airport. Taxis are very expensive, and the Skybus service (http://skybus.com.au/) is very good ($28 return) but getting a connecting train home from Southern Cross Station in the city can be a problem if arriving in very late at night or in the early hours of the morning. Long-term parking at or near the airport is another option. A couple of years ago the prices went up dramatically for the long-term parking at the airport, rendering it less cost-effective, but over recent years a number of commercial operations have spring up which provide either outdoor or indoor parking for your vehicle and 24 hour shuttle buses to and from the airport.
A firm called Busy Beaver Airport Parking (http://www.busybeaverairportparking.com.au/) regularly places discount vouchers in letterbox drops, and I decided to make enquiries as a late-night arrival back into Melbourne was going to be problematic re suburban train connections. Their discount voucher was not applicable as a public holiday was included in the relevant period, but the regular price of $52 (outdoor) for five days was very good value and cheaper than Skybus for our travelling group.
Dining in Style - The Queen Adelaide Restaurant on "The Ghan" Transcontinental Train (Day 3)
Tuesday 1 January 2013
Breakfast (0630 - 0830)
The menu was basically the same as yesterday, with juice, tea or coffee, a fruit-based dish or cereal, a main dish and toast.
The Eggs Florentine was in contrast excellent. This was made up with a muffin base, baby spinach, smoked salmon, poached eggs and bernaise sauce.
Another attractive looking alternative involved blueberries in syrup, fruit bread and double cream.
Lunch (13:00)
This was very similar to lunch on the first day, beginning with individual damper rolls, but this time accompanied by pepperberry butter and Davidson plum chilli preserve. The plum preserve had a delicious tang to it.
Continuing on with the fish theme, I selected as a main course the crispy skin Regatta Point Atlantic Salmon. This was served with asparagus spears, spiced watermelon cubes, cucumber and coriander salsa and fresh lime. The fish was beautifully cooked and the accompaniments were fresh and tasty. The watermelon really worked as part of the dish.
For dessert I did wonder if I should try the pannacotta, but decided to try the Lemon Meringue tart for a second time. It was again served with a mint leaf on top and a sweet and rich wild berry sauce containing redcurrants, raspberries and blueberries. The tangy lemon curd was tangy and slightly runny. There seemed to be some shredded coconut in the dish as well. The meringue was light and fluffy and the pastry was a good consistency. I felt that the dish was better the second time around - very enjoyable as a refreshing little dessert.
The meal was rounded off with a good strong full-bodied and cleansing cup of coffee with a pleasing after-taste. This was the best coffee that I had tasted for the whole journey.
Breakfast (0630 - 0830)
The menu was basically the same as yesterday, with juice, tea or coffee, a fruit-based dish or cereal, a main dish and toast.
The "Tropical Fruit" mixture - honeydew melon with native currants and a vinegarette dressing was rather disappointing. Just the melon on its own was rather monotonous and the currants were quite hard, with large stones in the centre.
The Eggs Florentine was in contrast excellent. This was made up with a muffin base, baby spinach, smoked salmon, poached eggs and bernaise sauce.
Another attractive looking alternative involved blueberries in syrup, fruit bread and double cream.
Lunch (13:00)
This was very similar to lunch on the first day, beginning with individual damper rolls, but this time accompanied by pepperberry butter and Davidson plum chilli preserve. The plum preserve had a delicious tang to it.
Continuing on with the fish theme, I selected as a main course the crispy skin Regatta Point Atlantic Salmon. This was served with asparagus spears, spiced watermelon cubes, cucumber and coriander salsa and fresh lime. The fish was beautifully cooked and the accompaniments were fresh and tasty. The watermelon really worked as part of the dish.
For dessert I did wonder if I should try the pannacotta, but decided to try the Lemon Meringue tart for a second time. It was again served with a mint leaf on top and a sweet and rich wild berry sauce containing redcurrants, raspberries and blueberries. The tangy lemon curd was tangy and slightly runny. There seemed to be some shredded coconut in the dish as well. The meringue was light and fluffy and the pastry was a good consistency. I felt that the dish was better the second time around - very enjoyable as a refreshing little dessert.
The meal was rounded off with a good strong full-bodied and cleansing cup of coffee with a pleasing after-taste. This was the best coffee that I had tasted for the whole journey.
Dining in Style - The Queen Adelaide Restaurant on "The Ghan" Transcontinental Train (Day 2)
Monday 31 December 2012
Brunch (mid-morning)
This began with a glass of fruit juice, followed by a fruit-based starter (or cereal) and then a wide choice of main meals, toast with accompaniments, tea or coffee.
The Wild Peach and Vanilla Parfait was lovely, consisting of succulent and sweet semi-stewed fruit with passionfuit, vanilla yoghurt, sliced almonds, hazlenuts and topped with a mint leaf.
The Full Breakfast was fairly traditional but not an overly large serving. It contained a slice of bacon, a small country sausage, half a grilled tomato, one champignon and a choice of eggs (poached, fried, scrambled).
There was a selection of toasted breads and toppings - butter or Beerenberg marmalade, honey, apricot and strawberry jams.
All very pleasant, but whether it was quite enough to tide us over until dinner remained to be seen.
Dinner (19:15)
The menu choices were exactly the same as the previous evening. The only difference was that instead of broccoli, chopped cooked red cabbage was served with the main meals.
I decided to try a different entree, and ordered the Haloumi Grilled Mushroom. This was a combination of a large brown mushroom, basil, sun-blushed tomato (still fairly soft), haloumi cheese, greens, caramellised bush tomatoes and balsamic syrup and a kalamata olive crumble. The mushroom was pretty bland and the crumble was dry. The tomato was nice and sweet but the sauce was quite acidic. Overall I didn't find the dish very appetising.
At home I am not a big meat eater, and after the past few days I was looking forward to something a bit lighter so turned to fish, which is probably my favourite form of protein. The Grilled Saltwater Barramundi consisted of a small piece of filleted barramundi with crispy cracked peppercorn coated skin on top. It was delightfully moist, flaky and tasty and could not have been cooked any better. The ubiquitous pancetta made another appearance on top of this dish. The fresh leaves of baby spinach were accompanied by a bland and disappointing cauliflower and horseradish puree and an interesting salty mixture of citrus, caviar and lemon oil.
I did contemplate having the apple tart for dessert this time, but was not persuaded that it looked appetising enough to forsake the chocolate pudding for dessert. This was still excellent on a second tasting, and the presence of the dried fruit and berries inside the cake really adds depth to the flavour.
Brunch (mid-morning)
This began with a glass of fruit juice, followed by a fruit-based starter (or cereal) and then a wide choice of main meals, toast with accompaniments, tea or coffee.
The Wild Peach and Vanilla Parfait was lovely, consisting of succulent and sweet semi-stewed fruit with passionfuit, vanilla yoghurt, sliced almonds, hazlenuts and topped with a mint leaf.
The Full Breakfast was fairly traditional but not an overly large serving. It contained a slice of bacon, a small country sausage, half a grilled tomato, one champignon and a choice of eggs (poached, fried, scrambled).
There was a selection of toasted breads and toppings - butter or Beerenberg marmalade, honey, apricot and strawberry jams.
All very pleasant, but whether it was quite enough to tide us over until dinner remained to be seen.
Dinner (19:15)
The menu choices were exactly the same as the previous evening. The only difference was that instead of broccoli, chopped cooked red cabbage was served with the main meals.
I decided to try a different entree, and ordered the Haloumi Grilled Mushroom. This was a combination of a large brown mushroom, basil, sun-blushed tomato (still fairly soft), haloumi cheese, greens, caramellised bush tomatoes and balsamic syrup and a kalamata olive crumble. The mushroom was pretty bland and the crumble was dry. The tomato was nice and sweet but the sauce was quite acidic. Overall I didn't find the dish very appetising.
I did contemplate having the apple tart for dessert this time, but was not persuaded that it looked appetising enough to forsake the chocolate pudding for dessert. This was still excellent on a second tasting, and the presence of the dried fruit and berries inside the cake really adds depth to the flavour.
That the kitchen is consistently able to turn out such a high standard of food in challenging circumstances is quite amazing, but I cannot help feeling that some of the dishes have been 'over-thought', with too many competing flavours (at times resulting in some "weird food" aspects), and there is only so much pancetta that you wish to see featuring as a component of menu choices. It would also be good to see a greater emphasis on vegetables as a balanced part of the main dishes as opposed to 'meat and potatoes', and perhaps some Asian-inspired dishes as this is such a significant part of Australian food culture. That said, it would not be appropriate to complain too much, as the restaurant team has done an excellent job despite the constraints and consistently demonstrated exemplary service.
Tuesday, January 8, 2013
Dining in Style - The Queen Adelaide Restaurant on "The Ghan" Transcontinental Train (Day 1)
Lunch (at 14:45!)
This is a dining experience not unlike the marvellous Colonial Tramcar Restaurant in Melbourne.
Patrons are seated in bays of four people, so for groups of less than four chances are that you will be making pleasant conversation with strangers, so have your 'small talk' ready!
For starters a plate of individual damper rolls with olive oil and spices was placed on the table and everyone was provided with a glass of water. (Other beverages are available at a cost.)
There were four mains to choose from (steak, salmon, chicken and goats cheese) and three desserts (lemon meringue tart, pannacotta or fruit). Service was very prompt, but no choice was offered with regard to the cooking of the steak, which universally arrived 'well done'.
The Angus Beef Medallions were served with some potato mash (sweetened by the addition of small pieces of caramellised onion), a tangy tomato chutney, a rich jus and a piece of bacon and a sprig of rosemary atop the steak.
Coffee and tea followed. This was a very pleasant meal, especially considering the limitations of the context.
Dinner
(19:15)
This was a three-course affair. For entree there was a choice of minestrone soup, blue swimmer crab and mushrooms with haloumi cheese.
The main course options consisted of beef cheek, lamb, pork, kangaroo, fish and vegetarian lasagne. For dessert the options were cheese, chocolate berry cake and apple tart.
The macerated blue swimmer crab was served on a piece of sourdough bread and accompanied by some leafy greens, guacamole, cucumber and thinly sliced pickled ginger.
In some ways it is a little unsettling to think about eating one of our national emblems A.K.A. the dearly beloved "Skippy the Bush Kangaroo" of childhood days, but it also seemed churlish to pass up the opportunity to try some unique Australian cuisine which was fully paid for as part of the package.
I must digress and tell the story of the brush tailed possum, protected in Australia but reviled in New Zealand as a toxic import. Anyone who has ever had a possum in their roof knows just how annoying and ornery these fluffy little critters can be, but woe betide you if you should set out to harm them in any way. It is a completely different story in New Zealand. On tour of the South Island several years back, I saw all manner of clothing items made out of possum fur (apparently gloves and socks are ever so soft and warm!) and on a tour was caused to visit Pete's Possum Shop, which sells all manner of possum paraphernalia, including possum pies. Yes, dear reader, in the interests of scientific curiosity, I consumed a possum pie. The meat was a bit like a greyish combination of chicken and lamb, but quite palatable. It is difficult to go past a nice old-fashioned pie with meat, gravy and melt-in-the mouth pastry. Oh, the irony of it! In Australia one might be jailed for making and eating such a pie, but in NZ it is encouraged!
Back to Skippy ... Two generous chunks of Nullabor Plains Kangaroo loin mignon were seared on the outside (served 'medium') wrapped in somewhat fatty pancetta and served with 'broken potatoes' (skin on), spiced quandong sauce and some fresh green broccoli. The pieces of kangaroo were a little tough and stringy in parts, and the dish would have benefited from being able to use a steak knife rather than an ordinary blunt knife. However, the majority of the meat was of a good consistency. The quandong (native berry) sauce was quite delicious.
The highlight of the meal was the Belgian Chocolate Muntries Pudding. This was presented as a warm flourless chocolate cake containing dried fruit, berries and streaks of chocolate ganache and a quenelle of double cream. The cake was light, fluffy and very yummy and the juicy berries combined well with the chocolate.
Once again water, tea and coffee were made available. Out the window to the west a beautiful sunset gradually evolved, with the golden sun shining through streaks of cirrus clouds low to the horizon and deepening hues of pink and purple.
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